Marinated Anchovies

 In the Italian vernacular there is a class of fish dishes prepared for short term preservation. They are pan fried and can be marinated for several days in vinegar or citrus and olive oil,
of the many versions, some of my favorite appear in Marcella Hazan’s Essentials of Classic
Italian Cooking. This is such a user friendly preparation. It can be made several days ahead
and is a stunning starter for any party.

The biggest problem when focusing on the smallest fish, anchovies or sardines, use whichever is freshest from your local monger, is deciding whether go in the direction of onions and bay leaves or garlic and mint. Since it is winter and the mint out on the fire escape is just holding on I decided against that profile. It is also an excellent opportunity to feature a stunning bottle of homemade red wine vinegar.

This dish is so rewarding it is a wonder it isn’t seen on more tables.
The anchovies pictured here are fried a little bit longer than is really needed but eating some of them as they come out of the pan is irresistible when they are crunchy and a little salty.


  



Marinated Anchovies

I highly recommend using the best vinegar you can get your hands on here. In fact, I
highly recommend making the vinegar yourself, it is easy and extremely gratifying.

1 pound anchovies
Olive oil
Flour for dredging
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
4 Fresh bay leaves
1/2 cup red wine vinegar

Clean the anchovies by first removing the head. Just hold it in one hand and bend back
the head with the other pulling out the intestines with it. Next, slip open the belly to butterfly the little fish and lift out the skeleton. Discard or deep fry for a treat if you
are really thrifty. Rinse the butterflied fish under cold running water and pat dry.

Season the flour well in a pie plate or shallow pan. Meanwhile, heat plenty of olive oil in
a heavy pan. Dredge the fish and slip in the pan. Cook till nicely browned on each side.
Transfer to a platter large enough to hold everything in a singe layer. Pour out the oil and
wipe the pan to remove the residue. Return the pan to the stove and add more oil. Heat
gently and add onions. Stir and cook without browning. Once they start to soften add
bay leaves. Cook for a couple more minutes and pour in the vinegar. Bring to a bubble
and pour over the waiting fish.

Cover with wrap and allow to marinate. Let stand for several hours at room temperature.
If you plan to eat it within 24 hours no refrigeration is necessary, otherwise chill and keep
for several days. Turn them over at least once. Remove from refrigerator several hours
before serving.

Cranberry Clafoutis

My clafoutis has been suffering an identity crisis. I was hoping to rectify
this situation with the latest recipe configuration. About a year ago I
tweaked my standard recipe to include yogurt and was happy with it.
When I went to make a cranberry version the scribbled on piece of
paper was nowhere to be found so I would have to start over. After
several wonderful renditions, I realized that my beloved was becoming
indistinguishable from a Far Breton save the fruit. A Far Breton is very
similar but I feel has more of a custard personality while a clafoutis is
generally thought of more resembling a baked pancake. Also a key
distinction of the Far is the very consistent appearance of prunes or
plums; most traditionally prunes, but the use of plums as well as soaking
in liquor are both respectful innovations. I’m one of those people who
makes my cherry clafoutis with the pits intact but still feel free to use
whatever fruit is in season.

So what was I to do? I decided to start using fresh yogurt rather than
a combination of milk and strained. Of course, yogurt needn’t be included
at all – in fact it’s not part of the traditional formula at all, but I like it.
Now, your yogurt won’t be just like mine, mine is homemade and subject
to daily variations. Use your favorite whole milk yogurt, I can’t recommend
low fat yogurt in any context. But the yogurt wasn’t really the issue. I
opted to increase the flour, and in the end settled on the 3/4 cup detailed
below. Given the use of two tart fruits I went a little heavy on the sugar.
I would ordinarily be happy with 1/3 cup. (Somewhere in all this the old
piece of paper turned up, and not surprisingly I ended up with the same
formula.)

Most every aspect of the this formula is up for grabs, like a pancake it is
very flexible and personal, if you are so inclined and have the time by all
means let the batter rest overnight in the refrigerator. Just don’t add
melted butter until you are ready to bake. You aren’t really looking for
gluten development after all.


Cranberry Clafoutis

3 Eggs
1 1/2 cups whole milk yogurt
1/2 cup evaporated cane juice, 2 Tablespoons reserved for fruit plus
      optional extra for pan and top
Pinch of salt
1 Teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 Cup all purpose flour
2 Tablespoons melted butter, plus some for the pan
1/2 to 1 Cup cranberries, to taste
1 to 1 1/2  Granny smith apples, cored and cut in large dice

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter pan and dust with sugar pan if you
are so inclined.Combine fruit and sugar and set aside. Whisk together eggs,
yogurt, sugar, salt, vanilla, flour and stir in melted butter. Submit to oven.
Once custard is set, after about 20 minutes, rain on a bit of sugar. Bake
till set and golden, about 45 minutes. Eat warm or room temperature any
time of day.

Pork Tenderloin

I’ve often fantasized about purchasing a whole pig but lack the freezer
space. I find breaking down a carcass or primal cut gratifying on many levels.



Recently some friends joined forces to butcher and share a half pig. This
creature came from one of my favorite pig farms upstate New York, they 
pasture raise heritage breeds that deliver great flavor and good fat. Along
with a good dose of virtue, self butchering also gives you the flexibility
to customize the cuts. Do you want double chops? Single? Bone in shoulder?
Loin? Loin Chops? Who wants the Tail? I have a small  bit of liver in the
freezer waiting for a chilly afternoon and as well as a few more good
meals to come.

I nabbed the tenderloin thinking of fainting-with-hunger Hubbo at home.
I usually turn my nose up at such a lean piece, it is called tenderloin for
a reason; the muscle gets little workout and there is little intramuscular fat.
But given the breed, we suspected this one was a Gloucestershire Old Spots
from the faint spots still visible on the skin, I was expecting to end up with
a tender, quick cooking, and yet flavorful piece. The best treatment would
be the simplest of seasonings and a quick sear.

            

I did trim off just a few pieces of fat and a bit of silver skin before seasoning
with salt and pepper. Some of this extra fat went into the pan to render for
the sear and the rest went into a pan to be rendered along with the veggies.
Veggies?: sautéed rainbow Swiss Chard stems and Choi.



While the meat rested on a cutting board I couldn’t resist the impulse to
make a quick sauce using the fat left in the pan. We would eat it all.
Just add some roughly chopped parsley, fry for a minute and deglaze with
homemade red wine vinegar, season with salt and pepper.

Duck Liver Two Ways

Can’t resist sharing lunch. Didn’t have any grand plans today but these little darlings
from the farmer’s market were waiting for inspiration. 
   


What better way to get a sense of their flavor than to eat them simply seared. Season
some flour and dust them. Sear until just firm and pink inside in duck fat and some sage.
They are really nice and rich full of liver flavor. Now to turn the remaining pieces into a
quick pate to snack on now and throughout the week.



So i used a few apples – pan fry them in duck fat with a bit of red onion, thyme,
sage, and apples then flame with brandy. The bread is the latest kefir whey leavened focaccia.

New York Scallops, King and Oyster Mushrooms

We don’t really really do “30 Minute Meals” around here but often the market
hands you these pristine ingredients that don’t ask for anything more than a
kiss of heat and some Salt and Pepper.

Oyster Mushroom

King Mushroom

Mei Qing Choi



Cut without destroying the integrity of the mushrooms; with the King,
think steak.



Sear in butter and season. Cook the king first and set aside while cooking
the oyster. I couldn’t resist deglazing with a little chicken stock during the
last minute of cooking the oyster rather than leaving any mushroomy goodness
stuck to the bottom of the pan; set aside. Wipe out the pan and sear the
scallops in butter or butter with a little oil, I’ve been using extra virgin
unrefined sesame seed oil lately.



Share.

Gooseberry Pear Jam

These darling little berries came in the CSA this week. Just a
few nestled in their papery skins; not really enough on their
own they came accompanied by several Bosc pears. Combine
these with my ubiquitous friend ginger and a spot of the season’s
first blood orange juice for a preserve that is compellingly
similar in texture to a pear preserve Mother made each year
when the fruit trees were buckling under their burden. Just a
little runny and sweet it bears a striking resemblance to fig jam
with all the little seeds. A spoon of this will be welcome when
the snow is here to stay.



Gooseberry Pear Jam

1 1/4 pounds pears, peeled, diced
1/2 inch knob ginger, minced
2 cups evaporated cane juice
juice of 1 blood orange
8 ounces cleaned gooseberries


Combine everything in a heavy pot and cook to gel stage. Process 10 minutes
in hot water bath.

Makes 2 half pints, 1 4 oz jar, and a smidge for snacking.

Sunshine

Sunshine in a Jar. Success. Peach Jam. Peach Lemon Confit.



Making this preserve was exhilarating, the sort of spread that inspires
cartwheels, suiting my taste it is very soft. If you prefer a firmer spread
cook a little hotter to reach gel stage of 220 F. Great on bread or a spoon.

Peach Lemon Jam

2 lbs. (4 cups) peaches, peeled and sliced
3/4 cup evaporated cane juice
1/3 cup lemon juice
1 Tablespoon lemon rind, cut in short strips

Combine all the ingredients in a heavy non reactive pot. Bring to a simmer
over a gentle flame to dissolve sugar. Simmer very gently for about 25 minutes,
stirring occasionally, increase the heat someone at this point to begin to thicken
mixture. I cook to about 110 and about an hour total which results in a very soft
spread.

Ladle into sterilized jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace; wipe rims and apply
lids. Process in hot water bath 5 minutes. Remove to a clean kitchen towel and
do not disturb for 12 hours. Remove rings, wipe jars and test seal.

3 half pint jars plus a bit.